Our recent Instagram chat with Dr. Ejikeme, Advanced Cosmetic Doctor and Medical Director of Adonia Clinic in London covered two highly relevant topics in skincare today: dry skin and impaired skin barrier. Dr. Ejikeme shared useful tips for our audience on how to recognize an impaired skin barrier. Read on!
We've all been there. Dehydrated skin and impaired barrier can lead to tight, itchy, painful and irritated skin. The good news is that Dr. Ejikeme has tips for you on how to repair dryness and restore your skin's barrier health.
Cica is a shortening of the term Centella Asiatica, an herb native to some parts of Asia and Africa. It’s a plant with many names but it's best known for its calming and anti-inflammatory properties. At Swissline, we use Madecassoside, the pharmaceutical-grade isolated molecule (extracted from Centella Asiatica) like that in our Age Intelligence product line.
According to Dr. Ejikeme, the skin barrier is like the brick and mortar of a house:The role of the barrier is to keep the bad things out and good things in.
If skin cells are bricks, imagine your skin barrier as the mortar or glue that keeps the bricks in place. Those bricks (lipids such as ceramides and important fats) make a wall to protect deeper important elements of the skin such as collagen, water reserves, vascularity, etc. A healthy 'brick wall' keeps in moisture and keeps out pesky allergens and irritants.
You might think it's simple dehydration when you feel signs of discomfort, tightness, and itchy skin. However, listen to your skin! if you feel stinging, redness, or burning in addition to those sensations, that could be a sign of an impaired barrier. Certain products like SPF and some moisturizers are not formulated to go deeper into the skin and this can be a sign your product is going further than it should be.
Dr. Ejikeme says that external factors such as over-cleansing, sun exposure, over-exfoliation can impact your skin's barrier in a negative way.
When you feel your barrier needs a repair and reset, step back and simplify your regime! Rely on a gentle, moisturizing cleanser and hold off on actives such as glycolic acid, salicylic acid, and retinol that will only cause more irritation.
1. For a few days or weeks, stop using aggravating ingredients such as glycolic acid, salicylic acid, and retinol. These actives accelerate cellular turnover, so it's best you take a pause from them while your barrier repairs itself.