Heroes come in different shapes and forms, but most of us can agree with Vitamin C, although a bit complex, is a skincare hero. It valiantly fights oxidation – even at its own expense, brightens the skin, and most importantly builds collagen, the most important structural protein in our skin, resulting in firmer, smoother skin.
Dr. Davin Lim, an Australian board certified and fellowship-trained laser, procedural and aesthetic dermatologist asserts: 'Vitamin C or ascorbic acid is one of the most flexible compounds in skincare. This vitamin can reduce cell damage from UV light, treat hyperpigmentation, as well as build collagen in the deeper layers of the skin.'
Dr. Davin Lim, an Australian board certified dermatologist
It can, of course, be taken as a supplement or formulated as part of a well-balanced topical skincare application. In skincare, the antioxidant power of Vitamin C, interestingly enough, is also its weakness. The more it fends off oxidants, the more its power is compromised, and the more unstable it becomes. You can visibly see its power weaken when the formula changes from clear to a yellow-orange colour.
AGE INTELLIGENCE RADIANCE BOOSTER - 10% VITAMIN C
There are many different Vitamin C (Ascorbic acid) derivatives used in skincare, each with their own unique pros and cons. Here are some of the most predominant ones, albeit with less potency than AA, but greater stability.
1. Ascorbyl glucoside is a stable form of Vitamin C with a glucose coating to protect against oxidation.
2. Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP) is a stable form of Vitamin C with a mineral coating, that increases skin hydration levels and protects skin from oxidation and UV rays.
3. Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP) is similar in action to Magnesium Absorbyl Phosphate (MAP), with a salt coating, but has been shown to be more stable than MAP.
4. Ascorbyl Palmitate is a highly stable, lipid-soluble ingredient, but it isn’t as potent as AA and can’t penetrate the surface of the skin easily, so it tends to be included more often in moisturising creams and lotions as an added antioxidant extra, to provide protection against free radicals and sun damage.
5. Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate is an oil-soluble derivative of Vitamin C that can be used in higher concentrations without drawbacks.
Swissline International Brand Director Custodio d’Avo admits in his Youtube channel, The Age Traveller, “I really like Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP) because the salt also helps the active vitamin, the coating, and acidic pH, it is not so low and so acidic that the formula when entering the skin it is immediately so reactive as oil soluble.”
Regardless of which Vitamin C derivative is in your skincare, it is important to have a well-balanced formula. It is also important for skincare users to remember that after opening a Vitamin C serum or cream, for example, that is should be used within 1-2 months to ensure the potency stays at its optimum level.
Some Vitamin C based products we particularly love include Age Intelligence Radiance Booster 10% Vitamin C, Brightening Diamond Serum.
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ILLUMINATING – ANTI-FATIGUE – TONING - 100% VEGAN An award-winning booster that illuminates and tones the skin, while reversing photo ageing. A flash of positive energy and freshness! The key ingredient, Stay-C® 50, registered as a quasi-drug in Japan, has been clinically shown to reverse the signs of aging and brighten the skin. Awards:Winner of...
INSTANT RADIANCE - FIRM SKIN - ANTI-SPOT A one-of-a-kind brightening serum with REAL visible diamond clusters - hard-science backed, yet indulgent and generous. A dual-chamber system of synergistic power-ingredients – glutathione, alpha-arbutin, vitamins C and E, clinically-tested multi peptides, soy isoflavones and… diamonds, so abundant even your eyes...
Non-drying cream-mask containing vitamin C with silk brush for an even and smooth application, remains creamy comfortable until removed. Formulated as an all-in-one facial mask, it brightens, intensively hydrates, detoxifies and refines pores. To be applied once or twice a week on a perfectly cleansed face as part of the Cell Shock White skincare routine.